Romantic breaks Lake Maggiore, Holidays for couples Luino
by Paul Herbert, Author, artist, broadcaster
ROMANTIC BREAKS LAKE MAGGIORE, HOLIDAYS FOR COUPLES LUINO, SECOND HONEYMOON LOMBARDY ITALY, ROMANTIC BREAKS FOR COUPLES OVERLOOKING LAKE MAGGIORE NEAR LUINO IN NORTHERN ITALY
Spending a romantic break on Lago Maggiore
I have to admit that I had not heard of Lake Maggiore or the town of Luino in Lombardy when I set about looking to book a romantic break to celebrate my 25th wedding anniversary. The idea of a second honeymoon in Northern Italy was appealing but my wife and I were not looking for the usual package holiday for couples as neither of us particularly like hotels or having to rub shoulders with people we wouldn't want to live next door to. A romantic break together; tied up with a bit of business I had to conclude in Switzerland would be perfect and it was by pure chance that I fell upon the website advertising a holiday apartment over looking Lake Maggiore in Northern Italy and within a few hours' drive of my offices in Switzerland.
Emails exchanged and I had booked a surprise second honeymoon for us both in a studio apartment halfway up a mountain with stunning views overlooking the lake and the pretty little town of Luino. Booking a self-catering holiday would allow us to come and go as we pleased, eat when and what we liked and not have to vacate a hotel room at a given time or hang around in the bar if the weather was poor.
ROMANTIC BREAK ON LAKE MAGGIORE
The journey from our home in south west France took far longer than the Michelin guide advised. It had looked a fairly short run across France from where we lived but it was obvious by the time we neared the border that we were going to have to find a hotel for the night. The problem of best laid plans of mice and men were compounded by the fact that I hadn't bothered to make any; and it was only by chance that we managed to find a small hotel on the French-Italian border that had a spare room to commence our romantic break. Lake Maggiore would have to wait till the following day.
Anna and Ruth, our hosts, had provided excellent directions from Luino to their apartment in Agra, a small village clinging perilously to the side of the mountain; and had given us two routes that we could choose to follow. Neither, I should warn you, are advisable if you are in any way a nervous driver or passenger like my wife. Both roads wind their way up the side of the mountain using hair pin bends and provide stunning glimpses of Lake Maggiore through the trees to anyone foolish enough to take their eyes off the road. Route one, it has to be said, is the slightly less scary of the two and is a more gentle drive for those who are afraid of dying. The shorter, more direct and steeper route is only to be recommended to those of you who don't care if you die. I jest of course and exaggerate only slightly to make my point but don't attempt the ascent in anything larger than a large family saloon and get your breaks checked at all costs.
HOLIDAYS FOR COUPLES NEAR LUINO
I made the ascent at what I considered to be a steady pace, with my wife gripping her seat and clenching her eyes shut only to open them every time I gasped or screamed as a car came hurtling round the corner on my side of the road. Squealing breaks and the occasional victory sign thrown in my direction; along with that look someone gives you when they think they are about to die and then manage to avert the disaster at the last second only to continue down the hill at break neck speed ready to meet the next car head on. It's amazing how many couples we almost got to know intimately as the passengers, only inches away, glanced into each others' cars with a look of horror; and this had to be a daily event for most inhabitants.
I pressed on resolutely, stopping occasionally to let the odd car, tractor and mountain biker pass us as the traffic built up behind us. Obviously, as our romantic break wore on I became more confident on the mountain road and on the last day only two pedestrians actually passed us on the way up.
I have to say at this point, all humour aside, that the view from our apartment over Lake Maggiore was absolutely fabulous and I would be willing to make that journey time and time again just to take in the incredible scenery. No words, painting, video or photographs are ever going to do the view justice — you have to see it for yourself. As I write this, the early morning mist is clinging to the tops of the mountains that roll down to Lake Maggiore on the east and west lakesides. I am sitting at the apartment window looking south down the lake at a few early morning boats that have already ventured to capture the early morning sun. If you have not seen the sun rise over Lake Maggiore then you have not experienced one of the most beautiful sights in the world. Being well travelled, I have to put the view from the gardens of the house in my top three vistas.
SECOND HONEYMOON IN LOMBARDY ITALY
The apartment itself is set above the garage of the main house and accessible by its own door. Anna and Ruth are willing hosts but unobtrusive and always on hand to give advice about what to do or where to eat. To be honest, during our week's stay we did very little — it was after all a second honeymoon. The studio apartment is light and airy and equipped with everything a couple could possibly need on a romantic break.
I tried to do some painting but my attempts to capture the view from our room fell well short of anything I could possibly hope to achieve. I am sure that artists with greater skill than I could do it justice; but this was my one disappointment with the trip. Faced with one of the most beautiful views in the world, I was unable to capture the light or the magnificence of the mountains that sweep down to the lake. Furthermore, my words, no matter how long I sit here inspired by the beauty of what I behold will convey how my wife and I were both moved to tears when we first laid our eyes on Lake Maggiore from our holiday apartment. I would challenge anyone not to be moved by the magnificent vista.
